Best Restaurant In Rye – This East Sussex restaurant is close to the sea, but the food is so good you won’t be able to find it on the beach
The Gallivant, Camber, East Sussex TN31 7RB (01797 225 057). Small plates £6-£8, mains £14-£32.50, desserts £7-£8, and wine from £24.
Best Restaurant In Rye
Sunshine That’s what lingers in the memory after lunch at the Gallivant, a small hotel and restaurant on Camber Sands in Rye. Lots of sunlight. It’s not just the sun when the taxi stops us, though – the sunlight is weak and milky, the kind you get by the sea in winter. The white-painted dining room itself, with its wooden frame under the glass, is full of swimsuits that display the bright diversity of the human form. Rubber plants and wooden planks are light.
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Last week, in Seaside, above London’s Blackfriars Road, a similar design was heard as an emotional reaction, apparently created by someone who saw a child’s drawing of a beach house, perhaps coming out of anaesthesia. . Gallivant clearly doesn’t think so. The current dining room is a new addition from 2018. A mood board may have been included. It could even be with pictures of children with white hair in sand dunes, so it is good to use Boden to whip up his clothes.
“Called edible mushrooms, smooth fat, pink meat”: lamb chops. Photo: Alex Lake/The Observer
In its most modest form, this is all a glorious ambition. A yoga class is finishing up in the area behind the dining room when we arrive. I feel good as long as I go through with it. Later, I leave Gallivant convinced that I want to be in the mess hall all the time. I think it works because there really is shame here. It’s one we don’t see because we’re more interested in our lunch – a series of thin, leggy dishes, whose appeal often trumps the care that went before them.
I have files on my computer as a list of restaurants to check out; places that I think will show me a good time and give me something to write about. Some people get on the list and get out again after a few weeks, like I jumped the first time. Some have been there for a long time and closed before I got anywhere near them. And there are places like Gallivant that I’ve followed for years. The new chefs have come and gone and I haven’t.
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At the end of last year they announced the hiring of another chef, Jamie Guy, who used to be on Mark Hix’s team. Finally, when I was in Rye, I had a good reason to visit. I’m glad I did. Guy’s cooking is closely tied to his time with Hix. It is not tiring and very satisfying. See: steak bun. The Whelks have an image problem. They look less like food than something you have to take from your immediate environment. As in, sotto voce: “I got rid of my fines.” They also often have chewing problems, due to overcooking. That’s why we ship most of our products to Korea. They know how to treat them well. Here, the umami-tasting molluscs are marinated, mixed with batter and deep fried. On the side is roughly chopped tartar sauce. It’s a very good start.
Guy has a clever way of using seafood as a flavoring agent. Half a scallion is fried and tossed with mussel butter, which adds fun to almost any recipe. It is topped with a piece of fried bacon. He is a gentleman in a tailored suit. Jerusalem artichokes are roasted until almost toffee-like and topped with thick goat cheese and a tender garden steak that only goat things can deliver. Both discs cost £7.
An extensive menu features selections cooked over an open wood fire. The cheater in me wants to cry about whether the Industrial Revolution was really a good idea when it comes to cooking; how I love electric ovens and gas ranges because they are easy to control, and do we all want to know by playing the game Fantasy the burning twigs? Also, if the cook knows what they are doing, wood-fired food can be very tasty. Here’s a whole turbard, or pork with capers and sage, or cauliflower with chickpeas and roasted millet. Or that’s what I have for £22 more: great lamb chops from the animals that patrol the seashore down by Romney Marsh. They are self-packaged as edible, fatty, pink meat. There is a bright, sharp ribbon of green sauce that flows over the plate.
In some places the ox cheek is left until it is ready to break with a hole. Garnished with sparkling jus. Next to it, smeared with plenty of sauce, is a mess of fermented barley. It is the older cousin of risotto; who has a habit of drinking alcohol and starts watching dirty movies. It is deep and dark. To keep everything from being too sweet, it’s topped with a big hit of freshly grated horseradish. We have green on the side because we are good people who take care of our bodies.
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The desserts make me think they need to hire a pastry chef, or at least someone who knows how to bake, because they are so delicious. That said, this is really fun stuff. Rhubarb, a bright pink that can only come from pressed varieties, is roasted and cooked in a thick custard with caramelized sugar. It’s a very dark chocolate mousse with vanilla ice cream and candied hazelnuts. Or, try a local cheese: Burwash Rose, Ashmore or Kentish Blue.
This local commitment is reflected in the wine list, which has a wide selection of English wines with information on the distance from our accommodation to the nearest winery, just 10 miles away. . A few years ago this would have been more significant than quality. It’s an emotional thing though. Many of these local bottles are not immediately available. You have to check the Spanish and French section for that, though. But the value is definitely there. A glass of Hush Heath Pinot Blanc-Chardonnay is simple and easy. Like a happy hour service, that knows when to be there and when to be gone. I’m sipping mint tea as the winter sunlight comes down from the sky, and I’m grateful to have finally made it to Gallivant in Rye. That’s one I can check off the list and thank God.
Elsewhere in Rye, I have a delicious evening meal at the Standard Inn, of a variety of dishes designed to drink beer. Local scallops are grilled on the shell in garlic butter. There’s Dungeness pot crab, a perfect liver parfait, and, randomly, perfectly stir-fried Korean chicken wings. Coincidence can be; welcome (
The AA, which has been handing out roses to British restaurants since the 1950s, has told those with one or two rosettes they will now have to pay £180 to be included in the AA handbook. Those who rank high but refuse to pay will not be included. The change affects independent restaurants, compared to those in hotels, who already pay according to various other schemes.
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It should come as no surprise that we eat a lot of food and have strong opinions about our favorite restaurants. This year for the first time, we turned that feeling into being (gasp!) the best in the state. Our 29 picks—a mix of hot spots, longtime favorites, and lesser-known gems—represent the elite. These are places where food, service, decor and atmosphere come together to create an unparalleled dining experience. Check out Westchester Magazine’s list of the 29 best restaurants here. — 1 — Blue Hill at Stone Barns | Pocantico Mountains
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